Use of X-band Radar for Wave and Beach Morphology Analysis

The present paper reports the observations of waves and beach morphology at two sites in Japan. One is the HORS Research Pier and the other is the Niigata coast where multiple shore protection structures have been installed. An X-band nautical radar system was employed for this study. Radar echo images provided instantaneous distributions of wave crests and waterlines along the shore. They were analyzed to grasp wave dynamics in shallow waters and to capture the changes of coastal features like the positions of bars and shoreline, and the foreshore slopes. The radar measurements were conducted from high to low tides or vice versa to trace the bottom profile and to estimate the foreshore slope in an intertidal range. Furthermore, the radar measurements also revealed a layout of submerged and detached breakwaters, jetties and the shoreline. It is effective for monitoring protective facilities for harbor and beach over a wide area.